While its houses, cafes and shops remain closed, National Trust has opened some of its gardens and parks. Today we visited Sissinghurst Castle in Kent. We couldn’t visit the interior of the house, still it is beautiful from outside and makes a dramatic background for its enchanting gardens, Rock Garden, White Garden and Walled garden. The walled garden, an explosion of colors and scent, took my breath away, especially the roses. Oh, lovely beyond words!
It’s all very well managed with reduced number of visitors, one way traffic, and one in and one out rule for the toilet, easy to keep distance.
We also paid a brief visit to Darling Bud Farm in Pluckley. Filming location for Darling Buds of May, Catherine Zeta Jones’ break out show and one of my discoveries during lock down. I enjoyed the show. The farm is now privately owned and no longer open to the public.
We were back to Colne Valley today and walked the South Harefield route. Weather was inconstant, but did hold off until we finished the walk. It literally started to pour a few seconds after we got back in the car. We started from The Bear on the Barge Pub and walked along Grand Union Canal and Broadwater Lake to Black Jack’s Mill, Countess of Derby’s Almshouse and St Mary’s Parish Church. It was quiet overall and wonderfully tranquil at fields of the church up on hills. We did not see farm land or cattle farm on this path, but as usual, kissing gates and stiles.
This spring is the sunniest in England since 1929. Not too shabby! Now that restriction on movement has been eased a bit, we can drive to parks, etc. – as long as it is not too far away, since shops, restaurants and public facilities such as toilets are still not open.
Colne Valley Park, just 30 minutes by car, is just right. It is 27,000 acre big. Our 5 mile (8 kilo meters) walk, Harefield and Batchworth Heights, although touching only a tiny fraction of it, is a great route giving glimpses of the main features of the vast park, lovely countryside, farmlands, woodlands, River Colne, Grand Union Canal, many lakes, and residential neighbourhoods too. I spotted many Emperor Dragon flies, many horse farms, including the 17th century Stockers Farm featured in Black Beauty and other films, and an old metal coal tax post with City of London coat of arm, but not one cow or sheep in sight. We started from Rickmansworth Aquadrome, where many people were sunbathing, picnicking on the lawn by the lakes, luckily the rest of the path was very quiet, passing only few people. It was a wonderful time out!
(Like other parts of the world, London is in lockdown, one upshot is that I finally found the time to blog about my trip to Italy.)
This is a 10 day holiday that took place at the end of October, 2019. My husband and I stayed 3 nights each in Florence, San Gimigano and Cinque Terre. We flew to Florence from London and back to London from Pisa. We didn’t need a car in Florence, but did preserve a car for the rest of the trip.
Three superb destinations in one, it was one of the most wonderful vacations ever. Each location is distinctively unique but all boast beautiful scenery, great arts and culture, delicious food and wine, fun shopping, sunny and warm weather to boot. I loved them all.
Florence
Is a beautiful town and easy to visit, everything is centrally located and within walking distance. We stayed at a B&B located at Piazza Firenze, which is brilliantly convenient, just around the corner to famous Piazza Della Signoria, a few blocks to Cathedral di Santa Maria del Fiore, and a few blocks to Uffizi Gallery and River Arno.
We booked in advance for Uffizi Gallery, Gallery of Academy, where Michelangelo’s David is the main draw, and dome of Cathedral di Santa Maria del Fiore, which comes as a joint ticket with the Baptistery. One can also climb to top of the free standing bell tower at the cathedral, Giotto’s Campanile. Not having time for both, I opted for the taller cathedral dome. It is a 463 step climb but worthy for the spectacular view from the top. All are well worth a visit, and a good idea to book in advance. Other recommendations, check out Palazzo Vecchio at Piazza Della Signoria and Ponte Vechio (the bridge over River Arno topped with jewelry shops), take a walk along River Arno to Piazzale Michelangelo for stunning views, taste rich variety of Italian meats and wine, shop and eat at Marcato Centrale. Italian leather goods are famous for its quality and design and one find plenty in Florence at reasonable price. A special mention to Fish Lab at Piazza Firenze, a great little place to eat.
Tuscany
It is interesting and important to know that Tuscany’s famous wine Chianti is differentiated as Chianti Classico and Chianti, which are two different DOCG, with two different areas of production and characteristics. Chianti Classico is produced in the Chianti region spanning from Florence to Siena. Its symbol is a black rooster. Chianti is produced outside of the Chianti region.
Most popular destinations in Tuscany are towns and wineries in the Chianti region. Classico Route travels through the region connecting Florence to Siena.
My visit to Tuscany is based on this insight and I chose to stay close to San Gimigano. On the first day, driving from Florence to San Gimigano, we followed the Classico Route, stopping at Castello di Verrazzano and Vignamaggio (two wineries near the town of Greve), and two ancient towns of Panzano and Rada. On second and third day, we explored San Gimigano.
Chianti is enchanting. Rolling hills, acres and acres of vineyards, olive groves, cypresses and charming villas, its scenery is idyllic and mesmerizing. Never had I seen before such heavenly blend of natural beauty and human ingenuity.
We stayed at Facttoria Voltrona, 15 minutes south of San Gimigano. It was dark when we arrived and we couldn’t see the surrounding at all. The next morning when I stepped out to the balcony, I was greeted by a wonderful vista of green hills, floats of morning mist in the valley, silhouettes of a villa preceded by cypresses and a hamlet perched on a high hill further beyond, all emerged picture perfect under a magnificent sunrise. I was gripped with joy!
Facttoria Voltrona is a charming Agrotourismo tucked in a secluded corner. An unpaved road connecting with the motor way ends here, no through traffic, only foot paths leading to Montauto (the diminutive hamlet on a high hill further beyond) and San Gimigano, among others. Montauto is visible from both of Voltrona’s villas. San Gimigano can be seen at the second villa across fields of vineyards and it makes a lovely picture.
Truffle hunting and wine tasting at Tenuta Torciano
Was a great experience. It was interesting to learn that while black truffles can be cultivated, white truffles can only be found naturally in northern Italy and that dog moms are fed with truffles to produce milk with truffle flavor and aroma and dog babies are thereby trained to identify truffles since birth.
San Gimigano
Is a charming medieval town with many distinctive rectangular towers. We had great fun walking through town, visiting, tasting meat and wine, and shopping.
Highest tower is Torre Grossa, which is part of Palazzo Public (Town Hall), and is located at San Gimigano’s main square, Piazza del Duomo, and right next to the cathedral. I highly recommended it, the view from the top is fabulous!
Another main square in town is Piazza della Cisterna, surrounded by interesting medieval houses, which now house hotels, shops and restaurants. The cistern underneath the piazza is capped by a travertine octagonal pedestal with steps, where tourists are often found to congregate. Vernaccia is a local specialty, a white wine produced only in San Gimigano. Borgo Tellena is a large wine and food store. Ristorante le Vecchie Mura is a super restaurant with beautiful dishes and a terrace with wonderful views.
Pisa
We stopped over in Pisa for a few hours on route to Cinque Terre and had time only for The White Field of Miracle, main attraction of Pisa. You can get join tickets for The Leaning Tower and Baptistery. Cathedral is free. It was pouring the entire time but still great to have visited. We did the touristy photo shots too, cliché but fun.
Cinque Terre
Means five villages in Italian. Built on the rugged Ligurian coast, Cinque Terre is dramatic and beautiful. Every turn and twist, from the villages, the footpaths in between or the sea, there is a postcard worthy picture waiting for you.
The villages are, from southeast to northwest, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Varnazza and Monterosso. Riomaggiore is the largest of the five, Corniglia the smallest and the only one perched atop a cliff far above the sea. Monterosso is the second largest but flattest, and boasts the best beach and a much coveted promenade. The most magnificent sunset is from Nessum Dorma in Manarola. While each has a spectacular belvedere, a better view of Corniglia is from the foot path leading to Vanarzza. The highest point is Prevo, a miniature hamlet midpoint on the footpath connecting Corniglia and Varnazza. The best view of all five villages is from the road not far outside of Riomaggiore’s village gate, leading onto SP370 towards La Spezia.
All are packed with colorful houses huddling against each other and all built on steep slopes. For those who are not fit enough, the best bet is to take the trains between the villages. For those who are able, it is worth exploring the villages on foot and walk the footpaths connecting the villages.
In addition to the fantastic views, the local cuisines featuring lots seafood are fabulous.
Wow, it was almost a perfect holiday in Plymouth, Devon and neighboring places in Cornwall. The area is peppered with scenic spots and we couldn’t have asked for better weather. Plymouth’s got some very impressive historic landmark, Francis Drake, Captain Cook, Charles Darwin, and the Mayflower all set sail from its harbors, Arthur Donan Doyle lived in a building on the Hoe, and a spot on the Hoe where Beatles took a famous group photo is now marked with 4 metal plates for fans to create their own Beatles-esque moment. While the rest of the city still looks sluggish, the waterfront area has been done up very nicely. And OMG, I loved the fresh local seafood, offered at reasonable price too.
Beautiful
Saltram House with lovely garden and ground made a relaxing day out. It has
connection with Jane Austen’s older brother Henry and it is said that Jane
herself had corresponded with Lady Morley about Emma. And yes, it’s what led me
to the discovery of this area :o) It is also the filming location for 1995
Sense and Sensibility as Norland. It is now a National Trust property.
Cotehele
is a breathtaking Tudor Mansion in Calstock, Cornwall. It seems to have stand
still in time and simply is evocatively beautiful. It also comes with an
impressive collection of weaponries and beautiful tapestries. The house is
located on a hill within view of Calstock Valley. The extensive estate ground
is situated on the bank of River Tamar and includes some advantageous viewpoints,
Prospect Tower for sweeping country sight and Calstock Lookout for exhilarating
view of Calstock Valley and Viaduct. The estate also includes a mill, the
largest mill complex I’ve seen. We also discovered that coincidentally Cotehele,
now a National Turst property, used to be owned by Edgcumbe family, same family
that also owned Edgcumbe House, which is next on my list. Cotehele is the most
fascinating house and ground I’ve visited!
The
story of Edgcumbe family and Mount Edgcumbe House and Park is one that leaves
you feeling awed, and a twinge of sadness. The Edgcumbes owned the land and
house at Cotehele and Mount Edgcumbe since around 1353. In the Victorian era,
the house become a grand castle and the family called Queen Victoria and Prince
Albert their friends. The family unfortunately was dealt a double tragedy
during WWII, its heir and future 6th Earl of Edgecumbe was killed in
the war and the house was bombed to rabbles. With no other direct male heir,
the estate passed to a second cousin in 1947. The 6th earl of
Edgcumbe faced dual jeopardy, a ruined house and death duties. The brave soul
soldiered on and embarked on restoring the house, applying for government
funding and negotiating deals to avoid the death penalty. The house was
restored based on its Tudor form, much smaller than it was before the bombing.
It was nevertheless finally finished in 1974 and lived in by his family for a
number of years. Eventually the 8th Earl relinquished the ownership
and it is now jointly owned by Plymouth City Council and Cornwall.
Edgcumbe
House and Park occupy north east corner of Cremyl Peninsular in Cornwall, which
sits on the south bank of river Tamar, opposite to Plymouth’s Royal William
Yard north of the river. The gardens and
views along the riverside are delightful. The house is located on a hill with
delightful views of the great lawn sloping down towards River Tamar and
Plymouth across the river.
P.S. There is a magnificent view point at B3247/Marker Lane.
An excursion to Box Hill, Surrey, inspired by Jane Austen’s Emma, turned out wonderfully well. Despite the cloudy and rainy forecast, weather was lovely all the way through. One can drive up but we took the steep climb from Burford Meadow and Stepping Stones. Views along the way are delightful and the most spectacular is from Solomon’s Monument. P.S. P8 is Juniper Hall seen from Box Hill. P9 is Burford Bridge Hotel at the foot of Box Hill and it is said that Jane Austen stayed there. P10 is a Blue Plaque found at Westhumble Village nearby. It shows Fanny Burney, whose novels were read and enjoyed by Jane Austen, once lived in the village.
A lovely day out in St Albans with friends Amanda and Ian. St Albans is an old town rich in history. We did the ‘A Roman City Revealed’ tour, very interesting. Its grand Cathedral features an interesting talk in the choir by a “Benedictine Monk”, telling story of days when they did 8 prayers a day including 2 hours in the middle of the night and drinking up to 8 pints of beer a day.
Polesden Lacey in Surrey is beautiful inside and out, boasting an amazing collection of paintings and Chinese china from the Qing dynasty, a lovely garden and a great lawn in front of the house, looking out to the lovely woodland and valley. Visitors were enjoying themselves on the lawn, relaxing and having picnics. The story of Maggie Graville, last owner of the house, is one of the most interesting. Her father made his wealth from brewing beer, and married her mother, who was an illiterate servant girl, when Maggie was 21. She as the only child inherited huge wealth from her father and no expense was spared in fixing up Polesden Lacey to be fit for a king. Edward VII was her friend and often stayed at Polesden Lacey. George V was not a fan of her father and didn’t favor her at first until she hinted she might give Polesden Lacey to Prince Bertie. Bertie and his bride spent their honeymoon at Polesden Lacey. When Maggie died in 1942, she however did not give Bertie the house but gave it to National Trust instead. She did leave the royal family all her jewelries, a whole case of 40 some pieces of valuable jewelries. Among others, an all diamond tiara was seen on the queen mother Duchess of Cornwall, and Princess Eugenie.
Along with a group of friends, we enjoyed a brilliant operatic rendition of Mansfield Park at the ballroom of Waterperry House. A stroll in the beautiful garden and a picnic before performance only enhanced the pleasure.
Edge of Sky Corner of Sea 