Jane Austen Regency Week in Hampshire this year runs from June 22nd to 30th. Opening weekend featured Festival Fair on Alton’s High Street, Regency Ball at Alton Assembly Room, a talk by Caroline Knight, and afternoon picnic at Chawton House which included a reading by Susannah Harker, aka Jane Bennett of BBC’s 1995 Pride and Prejudice, and other entertainment. It is one of the best Jane Austen experience we’ve had. At Chawton, beauty of a quintessential English village was at full display and the presence of Jane Austen’s world was wonderfully palpable. P.S. A visit to the area is not complete without a stop at Steventon. First two photos are Steventon Church and the field where the former vicarage used to stand.
Torquay is a seaside town in Devon and the main attraction of the English Riviera. During its golden age in the late 1800s Torquay attracts the rich and the privileged; the Prince of Wales visited in 1864. Since then, Torquay has gone through many changes.
In
the center of town and most popular tourist area is the delightful waterfront
promenade, which is spread between the two iconic hotels, The Grand Hotel and
The Imperial Hotel.
It
is also known as Agatha Christie Mile. Torquay is Agatha Christie’s childhood
home and you’d find many reminders of her connection to Torquay. Among others,
annual Agatha Christie Festival is held in Torquay, there is an Agatha Christie
Gallery at Torquay Museum, you can stay at Agatha Christie Suite at The Grand
Hotel, there is an Agatha Christie bust near the Princess Garden and there are
many Agatha Christie plaques marking spots connected to her. Greenway, Agatha
Christie’s last home, is located on the bank of Dart River only 30 minutes
away.
The
Grand Hotel and The Imperial Hotel are two iconic hotels from the Victorian age.
Agatha Christie honeymooned at The Grand Hotel. The Imperial Hotel is featured
in Agatha Christied’s Hercule Poirot, Peril at the End House. While The Grand
Hotel has retained its former Victorian architecture, The Imperial Hotel has mysteriously
changed into its current dull form from its formerly attractive Victorian
style.
For
those who enjoy coastal walks, there are plenty in the area. We took a short
one between The Imperial and Meadfoot Beach. A famous landmark on this route is
a natural arch known as the London Bridge. At Meadfoot Beach is The Osbourne
Hotel where Charles Darwin stayed.
The
mile long Kent’s prehistoric Cavern is interesting. Only guided tour are
offered. Our guide was infromative and funny, he gave us an interesting
experience. In one of the chambers, he turned off all lights and showed the
group what darkest darkness is like. Certainly not something that I could have
imagined.
Torry Abbey is beautiful with interesting history and you’d find in its garden, Agatha Christie Potent Plants, a poisonous plant garden. Cockington just a few minutes south of town center is a different world. The art studios at Cockington Court are very interesting. I found something at Our Glass to take home with. Visit the interesting old church and don’t miss the Sanctuary Bar at the church door. Next door is the tranquil Cockington Village with thatch roofed cottages. Totnes, a former market town, is not far so we stopped by and were just in time to visit Totnes Castle. Dinner at King Williams IV, a pub, before heading home was just great.
Got to love London’s rich cultural opportunities. And thanks to a friend for organising, we had a feast of music today, Carmina Burana by London Symphony Chorus with conductor Simon Halsey at Barbican Hall, Jewish dance music by Lakeside Clarinet Quartet at Barbican Conservatory and then Viva Espana! with guitarist Andrey Lebedev at The Hospital Church of St Bathelomew the Less. All wonderful music and brilliant performers. All part of music festival, Sound Unbound, and entirely free!
My
husband and I met up with his parents in Copenhagen where they ended their
transatlantic cruise. The first impression was Copenhagen is expensive. A 5
mile, 15 minute taxi ride from airport to hotel cost £40 pound. In London you
can ride twice as long for the same price. And Copenhagen is indeed expensive
with many things. But we did have a good time nonetheless. There was plenty of
sunshine and I ate plenty of Smorrebrod. The marinated herring, which has a
mild sweetness to it, is actually quite good. There are many tall Danes and most
people speak good English.
Copenhagen’s
city scene is pleasant and convenient with both Hop on and Hop off boats and
buses available.
Old Harbor is colorful, vibrant, and has lots restaurants. It is a block away from Admiral Hotel where we stayed, and we ate almost all our meals there. Tivoli Garden is probably the prettiest amusement park; every flower was perfect when we were there. It is an easy climb on the access ramp to the top of The Round Tower for a panoramic view of the city. The Round Tower is more interesting in purpose, it was built in 17th century as astronomical observatory. Frederik Church aka Marble Church near Amalienborg Castle is beautiful. Amalienborg castle itself is an impressive set of symmetrical buildings. A small set of rooms open to the public are the modest of palace rooms I’ve seen and half of it was dedicated to theatrical design involving the former Queen Margrethe II.
Rosenborg Castle is stunning, more so inside than out. It was built by Christian IV as his summer residence. After being used as royal residence by a few more kings and queens, it became a royal storage and is now truly an amazing treasure trove. On display also is the pen, a common looking pen, that King Frekerik VII signed Denmark’s first constitution in 1849. A guide pointed it out to us and told an interesting story. Father of Frederik VII, the previous king, left him an advise, “gave people the power, or they will come get it themselves”, referring to the French Revolution.
There is more to learn about Denmark. As the birthplace of Hamlet and Little Mermaid, present Denmark of 5.8 million people has the highest tax rate at 56% and a 120% tax rate on imported cars which means all cars. Yet in the meantime it is ranked by UN the top three happiest countries for the last 7 years. Fascinating!
We went to Hampshire in
search of Blue Bells and found it at Hinton Ampner, an enchanting village. Seas
of Blue Bells was surely a phenomenal sight to behold! (Last four photos.)
Exbury garden in New
Forest, a remarkable botanical garden with beautiful landscape belonging to a
branch of the Rothschild family, is an explosion of vibrant colors with Japanese
Maples, Camellias, Rhododendrons, Azaleas and more.
Boileau is a lovely little village in the New Forest where New Forest ponies mingle with the friendly neighbors and visitors alike.T The Vyne is a house filled with intriguing history hidden in its fireplaces, ceiling and wood panels since the Tudor time. Jane Austen visited when her older brother Rev James Austen was the local vicar of Sherborne St John. (First four photos).
Driving to the “continent” from London over Christmas was an interesting experience. You drive to Folkstone, Kent and drive onto the train that takes you through EuroTunnel in an easy 30 minutes, cool! From Calais, France you can direct your car whichever way you want. Our main destination this time was Belgium.
Brussels
Is lovely. The good weather we were lucky to have was a nice break from London that has been grey and wet for weeks. The Christmas tree at the beautiful Grand Place is one of the grandest and quite magical at night. EU headquarter is a cool complex of buildings, almost futuristic. Many places like museum were closed but we had fun walking around the city and checking out the Christmas markets, largest of them is Winter Wonder near Grand Place. If you haven’t heard of the Pissing Boy, you can’t miss him. He is everywhere. You’d also find chocolate, fries, waffles and Gluhwein everywhere. My husband is quite smitten with Belgium beer. Luckily Basilica of Sacred Heart was open on Christmas Day and we went up to its Panorama for a fantastic bird’s eye view of the city.
Brugges
Is a gorgeous historic little town, with many architectural delight. Best view of it is from its Bell-fry at the market square. We made our way up there just as the sun was setting and the tower bell was ringing, perfect! Market square seems the center of the town where there is natural a Christmas market. I had the best fries from the stand right next to the entrance to the Bel-fry. What I like best is to have mayonnaise and ketchup on the side and dip in alteration. Brugges is small and easy to walk. Here is a link to a self-guided walking route: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/belgium/bruges/in-location/self-guided-tours/a/nar/389a6cd3-56eb-4306-a9fb-d6374c307bbe/1342451
Dunkirk
Driving made it possible for us to make a stop at Dunkirk. Although brief, it was a meaningful visit, remembering those who sacrificed, remembering how devastating war was and remembering how precious peace is.
Pretty sunset accompanying us on the drive back culminated at Calais, France. A beautiful send off. Au revoir!
P.S. Due to the different rules, you do need an EU driving kit which includes a GB sticker and a fire extinguisher among others and can be purchases online. Reservation for cross EuroTunell by car can be done on this website: https://www.eurotunnel.com/uk/home/
